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![]() This happened after only two years of owning our new RV, so it didn't take long for corrosion or oxidation to build up. Sometimes your batteries are hooked together and sometimes they are only connected together with very high resistance so it seems that they aren't, as the engine seems to no longer charge the coach batteries even though you heard the solenoid close with a "clunk" sound. They become corroded or oxidized over time and although they "close" (you can still hear them close), the electrical path is not made very well each time. Otherwise, the system seems to do most of what it should. It seems that the solenoid will only go off (disentangle) when the house isolator is toggled to USE and the house battery is weaker than the engine battery.Ĭan anyone help me ascertain if I have a malfunctioning solenoid, or a bad electrical wiring design? As it stands, the only sure fire way to disentangle the two batteries when we return from a trip and store the rig is to put a terminal on/off switch on the house battery. ![]() The solonoid that entangles the two batteries will do so when the engine alternator is on or when a charger is placed on the house battery, or when the house isolator switch is toggled to USE and the house battery voltage is higher than the engine battery and you toggle the emergency start toggle. I do not know if my solenoid is working as designed or not. ***House Battery Isolator toggled to USE(coach lights, etc, can work)ĥ) If I now toggle the house battery isolator to USE(lights can go on), the two batteries are still entangled, UNLESS I turn on all the house lights and this load drops the house battery voltage below the engine battery voltage, at which time, within a few seconds, I hear the solonoid click off and the batteries are once again separated - disentangled.Ħ) And in a separate test with the house battery isolator toggled to USE, and with the voltage of the house battery at rest higher than the engine battery, turning the ignition key on one click and toggling the Emergency Start on the dask, the solenoid clicked. ![]() They are entangled!Ĥ) Also, in a separate test with both batteries disentangled first, with house battery isolator toggled to STORE (isolated), nevertheless, starting the engine up, both batteries get 15V from the alternator AND get entangled. ![]() ***House Battery Isolator toggled to STORE(no coach lights, etc, can work)ġ) If I put a charger on the engine battery with the house battery isolator toggled to STORE(isolated), engine battery alone sees the 14V.Ģ) But, if I then put the charger on the house battery – still isolated – I hear a solonoid click on and both batteries get 14V from charger.ģ) Now they are connected in parallel, and when I remove the charger, they will equalize to a common voltage. It is the latter that is driving me crazy as I run some tests as follows: I am pretty sure I have two solenoids in a box near my coach battery: a) a house battery isolator that toggles to STORE (isolate) or USE (run coach lights, etc), and b) another that seems to do a lot of things depending on the voltage of both house and engine batteries as well as the nature of the charging voltage (external shore, ext charger, engine alternator, and generator. There was a thread a year ago, but the above question is separate and the old thread is likely more than you want to look at House and Engine batteries connected full-time?Ĭan any electrical whizzes make sense of this. Topic: Bad solenoid, or faulty wiring logic? Please, help!įor my Chevy Trail Lite, is the emergency start solenoid employed when letting the engine alternator charge both batteries (requires that the coach battery isolator be toggled ON/USE,) or is it the house batt isolator solenoid the one involved. Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Bad solenoid, or faulty wiring logic? Please, help! Open Roads Forum
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